Making the Jeans

After drafting my pants block in [the previous post](https://jotomas.com/blog/drafting-a-pants-block), I used it to make my first pair of jeans. I had some denim left over from an older project and decided to use it for this pair. The denim doesn't have much stretch, which turned out to matter when I got to fitting. I didn't run into any problems cutting it, but I did serge all the raw edges before assembling the garment. That took a considerable amount of time. It was worth doing, since I wanted the inside of the jeans to hold up to regular wear.

The pattern itself didn't include a fly or pockets, so I added those. I went with conventional jeans pockets on both the front and back. My construction order was to add the fly first then attach the pockets. After that I joined the front and back pieces, added the waistband and finished with the hems.

The fly was easily the most frustrating part of the construction. I had tried to understand how to do one before, but it wasn't until I watched a detailed video tutorial that the process finally made sense. The tutorial showed all the steps clearly enough that I could follow along and understand what I was doing. I'd recommend finding a good video demonstration if you're trying to add a fly to a pattern that doesn't include one.

The waistband was much easier. I added some extra seam allowance and made it wider than the original plan. I didn't make any other pattern changes before cutting. I already knew the waistband would need some attention.

The fit was good when I first tried the jeans on. After wearing them a few times, I noticed two things I'd want to change. The knees are tight when I'm sitting and the waist is loose. The suggested default leg girth in the tutorial I used was too small for my legs. I have thick legs and should have allowed more room there. The denim hasn't stretched or shrunk with washing and wearing. It has softened a bit.

I'm happy with how they turned out. They look good and the fit is close. There are a few things I'd change before cutting another pair. First, I'd make the waistband wider and change it to an elastic waistband with a drawstring. I'd also change the pockets and make them larger. The front and back jeans pockets worked for this pair, but I'd like to try a different pocket design next time. I'd add elastic cuffs at the bottom too, in a jogger style. That should make them more comfortable and easier to wear. I also want to add pleats and darts to the next version. The waist needs to be taken in a little while leaving enough room through the rest of the garment. Those adjustments should help address the loose waist without making the legs any tighter.

This first pair gave me a good starting point. I have a working pattern and a much clearer idea of what I'd do differently. The next pair will have a different waistband, pockets and cuffs, along with some adjustments to the fit.

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Drafting a Pants Block